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I am who I am. Don't try to change me, It won't work! Like me, love me, or get the hell out of my way! I have been described as an opinionated asshole in the past. Mostly by people that didn't like hearing what I had to say. I have also been decrribed as a very good friend to have when your butt's in the fire. If you are still reading this then maybe one day you will see that side of me, as you have passed the first test, you have listened.

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Would You climb on these?





I would not climb on these and if you saw how easy four of these pulled out you wouldn't either. Please look at what you’re clipping into folks. Just because it is placed in the rock doesn’t mean it is safe! Knowledge is power, never stop learning and never think that you know it all. I am by no means an expert at bolting and don't claim to be. I am learning, as I will be the rest of my life. Even I knew as soon as I saw this that it was an accident waiting to happen. Did I piss someone off? Yes. Did it keep someone from getting hurt? Probably. I have big shoulders and I will take what comes my way as fall out for my actions. Remember one other thing everyone. Every single person that ties into a rope or clips a bolt is a safety officer, If you see something that is unsafe make an on the spot correction to fix it. The life you save may well be your own.

Pyro

P.S.
As you can see I got a picture of the Troll at bear haven. From the look on its face it looks like it just got done feeding. If you see this troll DO NOT APPROACH, it senses fear and stupidity and may attack! Slowly lay your rack on the ground and back away from it. When you have enough distance RUN LIKE HELL!
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1 comment:

  1. Michael GrayMay 20, 2011 at 11:12 AM

    Love it! If the top hanger was actually oriented in that position it was basically a small pry bar pulling the bolt out of the rock every time it was loaded.

    In this type of dense conglomerate matrix, these are NOT the right type of bolts. Glue-in's would be ideal, but the fact of the matter is that you don't NEED bolts. Yes, I sound lke an old fart, mainly cuz I am, but I happen to be an old fart with over 120 first ascents, trad and sport and aid, forest and desert and everything in between, so I do bring a wee bit of perspective to discussion. Seventen years ago, we climbed the sweet, finger-destroying problems and faces at Bear Haven without finding any need to bolt lines and install anchors because we were to stupid or lazy to bring along several 20' hanks of webbing and some perlon. Bear Haven was a pristine area on par with the way Hidden Rocks once looked- a rhodo jungle that bnrushed the flanks of an amazing outcropping of stellar stone. Impact is inevitable, I know, but the changes that have come are out of all proportion with any effort put out by the climbers who have caused the to mitigate their impact.

    Kudos to Pat for removing this bogus gear and eyesore.

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