After years of anticipation and direct advocacy by the Access Fund, the National Park Service has released an updated draft of its wilderness management policies in order to provide accountability, consistency, and continuity in its wilderness stewardship program. The update covers a wide range of topics including the long-waited-for provisions specific to climbing fixed anchors. Iconic climbing areas in the U.S.—including as Yosemite, Zion, Black Canyon, and Rocky Mountain national parks—would be governed by this new policy.
The proposed policy acknowledges that climbing is a legitimate and appropriate use of wilderness and that each park with significant wilderness climbing activities must prepare a climbing management plan. However, the policy calls for climbing to be restricted or prohibited if unacceptable impacts to wilderness resources or character occur.
This proposed policy recognizes that the occasional placement of a fixed anchor for belay, rappel, or protection purposes does not necessarily impair wilderness, but it requires prior authorization for the placement of new fixed anchors (replacements or removals may also require park approval). The requirements and process for authorization are to be laid out in each park’s climbing management plan.
The practical outcome of this proposed policy is that climbers would need a permit or some other authorization prior to the hand-placement of new bolts in any national park wilderness area. Most parks currently require no such prior-approval. The public will have 60 days to comment on this proposed policy revision.
About Me
- Pyro
- I am who I am. Don't try to change me, It won't work! Like me, love me, or get the hell out of my way! I have been described as an opinionated asshole in the past. Mostly by people that didn't like hearing what I had to say. I have also been decrribed as a very good friend to have when your butt's in the fire. If you are still reading this then maybe one day you will see that side of me, as you have passed the first test, you have listened.
Why do climbers have to resort to techniues from the early industrial age to place safety equipment when every other sport and user group in the forest are alowed to use modern technology? If climbers have to use hand drills, then fishermen need to use worms instead of Power Bait, bamboo poles and bone hooks, hunters need to use black powder and NO DOGS WITH RADIO COLLARS, and backpackers need to be camping in military surplus pup tents, carrying external frame packs, and wearing wool.
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